Svörtuloft Lighthouse

Centuries ago, a volcano erupted near the tip of western Iceland’s Snæfellsnes Peninsula, spewing thick lava that swept over the land and stopped only once it faced off against the frigid sea—forging a treacherous, dramatically beautiful coastline in pitchblack lava. The resulting cliffs are known as Svörtuloft (roughly translated as “Black Ceiling”).

Standing in contrast to the cliffs is a stout, fluorescent-orange lighthouse. Navigating this region is extremely dangerous, with many ships having been destroyed or left stranded. These perils prompted the construction of an iron lighthouse in 1914. Erosion led to it being replaced in 1931 with this bold and hardy concrete beacon that goes by different names, depending where you stand…or float (Svörtuloftaviti if viewed from land, Skálasnagaviti from sea).

Colonies of coastal birds nest along the wild rock formations marked by the lighthouse. Farmers used to collect eggs from these birds by lowering themselves by rope, enduring the violent waves. That practice has been abandoned for pretty much every reason, but one can still observe these cliff-dwelling seabirds and a stunning panorama of mountains and lava fields covered with thick green moss.

More than a dozen places in Iceland carry the name Svörtuloft, which makes for an interesting time navigating by GPS. But the name is a fitting tribute to a cliff born of the meeting between heat and ice— darkness and a lighthouse.

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