Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal

Chatuchak, Thailand | C.2021

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Submitted by: Alessandra Cervetti

Written by: Accidentally Wes Anderson

Southeast Asia’s largest railway station houses a time capsule: a meticulously recreated early 20th-century railway office, complete with vintage telephones and weathered documents. It’s a nod to when German engineers took over management of Thailand’s first state railway network in the 1890s, a strategic gambit by King Chulalongkorn to keep colonial powers at bay. Before railways, Bangkok to Chiang Mai took months by elephant. By 1922, it was an overnight journey. The old desk and tools here recall when railway officials managed an empire-saving network with nothing but telegraphs and handwritten logs.

The station holding that time capsule has changed names as often as Thailand’s railways changed hands. Built on a former junction and known first as Bang Sue Grand Station, it was renamed Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal by King Vajiralongkorn before opening fully for long-distance service on January 19, 2023, retiring Hua Lamphong after more than a century as Bangkok’s main terminus. At 274,192 square meters and roughly two dozen platforms, some stretching 600 meters, it holds the title of the largest railway station in Southeast Asia.

Chulalongkorn’s original strategy was never to lean on one foreign power for too long. Danish officers trained the military, Belgian jurists wrote the legal codes, British advisors managed the finances, and Germans ran the railways, a rotating cast of colonial rivals kept too busy competing with each other to unite against Siam. The empire he built by trusting no single empire now runs from one terminal, with through lines reaching toward China, Laos, and Malaysia.

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