Templo de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción

San Cristóbal de las Casas is an elevated city in Chiapas, Mexico. Templo de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción is its main Catholic church and a fitting one, as it’s a mesmerizing place of worship. More commonly referred to as the Catedral de San Cristóbal, like many colonial-era buildings, it blends European and Indigenous architecture into a style all its own.

Though reverent, this is not a solemn town, especially not during Holy Week, when elaborate rituals are performed. In the evening, silent processions go from house to house, stopping to bless those displaying small altars, and ending at a large, candlelit shrine where a massive potluck is shared by any and all.

Passion plays depicting the Crucifixion are common scenes during this time, with the main one centered by the cathedral. Mock figures are ceremonially burned—not just Judas types but also government bureaucrats, officers, US political figures, Spanish conquistadors, and celebrities (all set aflame by local firemen). If burning effigies isn’t your jam, the Spring and Peace Fair runs concurrently, with people lit in a different way: by music, costumes, and revelry.

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