Northernmost

Ny-Ålesund, Svalbard

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Photos by: Sarah Barnard, Karin Helle Hamnes

Ny-Ålesund, populated by a few dozen people, is the world’s northernmost permanent settlement. There are research stations even farther into the unknown, but there’s nowhere beyond here where you can knock on a neighbor’s door for a cup of sugar and a bit of banter.

Most civilians live in the comparatively sprawling metropolis of Longyearbyen, but they almost certainly weren’t born there. There are no births here—as the hospital doesn’t have an NICU, mothers are encouraged to leave Svalbard three weeks before delivery—and no one is allowed to die here either. (Well, at least they can’t be buried—the permafrost makes it impossible.) The town was built by the coal-mining industry, with operations from both sides of the Iron Curtain working alongside each other. Since then, mining has scaled down significantly.

Taking the place of coal miners are scientists eager to immerse themselves in Svalbard’s epic landscapes and wildlife, and travelers keen to experience the world’s northernmost post office, brewery, or chocolatier. Most of these landmarks are built on stilts, due to the ground’s unstable permafrost.

Residents must be mindful of the restrictions that ensure wildlife will not be disturbed. For example, cats have been banned from the archipelago, to prevent them from interfering with wild birds.

And everybody takes off their shoes when entering public buildings. Restaurants, hotels, homes, and offices throughout Svalbard have set this expectation. It started as a practical measure to avoid spreading coal dust, but contemporary residents continue the tradition. When venturing into museums, workplaces, hotels, or the post office, expect locals to be in their socks or house slippers—and they’ll expect you to do the same. But should you kick off your boots, be mindful not to stumble outside to the mailbox before slipping them back on—if you want to keep all of your toes.

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