Reykjavík Skarfagarður

In a seemingly ordinary corner of an Icelandic warehouse sits a single cabinet. Within that nondescript cabinet are the keys to every lighthouse in the country. The master keeper and custodian of these is a man who has dedicated his livelihood to the beacons that have been saving sailors and enticing explorers for centuries.

When Ingvar Hreinsson took on the job and its exhaustive responsibilities, many of Iceland’s lighthouses were deteriorating. More than two decades later, his work has been nothing short of magnificent. He’s visited every single one of the country’s 104 lighthouses—assessing, tinkering, and reconfiguring until he felt confident that each nut, bolt, and bulb was working as it should, and that every tower was living its best life.

The work of a lighthouse keeper generally entails a great deal of monotony, but for Ingvar, no two days are the same. Some lighthouses have been severely worn down due to years of exposure to harsh and unrelenting elements, requiring a bit more TLC. His visits are bespoke—each lighthouse gets what it needs, no matter how long it takes.

The keeper’s favorite has been outfitted with a very special feature. Ingvar enjoyed the ample amount of time he spent atop the dramatic cliffs of Dyrhólaey—which means “the door hole island,” referring to the tremendous stone arch the sea has eroded from the headland. So he decided to build a fully stocked apartment within the peninsula’s lighthouse. (For those who may have dreamed of living in one, if only for a night, keep in mind that when Ingvar is away, you can rent it as a B&B.)

Resisting the stereotype and expectations that might shine upon a lighthouse keeper in Iceland, Ingvar does not relish solitude. Instead, he works alongside a team of eighty volunteers, buoyed by an elaborate, spectacular workshop that’s loaded with all the lamps, lenses, pulleys, and other lighthouse-related gear one might need to keep mariners safe. Revise your presumptions of an old toolshed. The centerpiece of Ingvar’s workshop is an indoor ocean simulator. This marvel spans half the size of an airplane hangar and is filled with a water system capable of re-creating the conditions of any harbor in Iceland.

In 2016, more than two decades after he set off on his long, winding, windy traverse along the coastline, Ingvar completed the circuit, repairing the final, 104th lighthouse on his list. Many presumed this would mark the end of his tenure, him having fulfilled his original mission. Nah. He’d be the first to tell you: there will always be more water, wind, sand, and salt guaranteed to take their toll on these lighthouses. Given that reality, paired with an expertise and passion that has grown stronger with each tune-up, Ingvar’s work will never end.

This is a great fortune for Icelanders and visitors to the beguiling island, as Ingvar’s project has changed the way lighthouses are used altogether. Sure, lights will keep spinning for sailors veering too close to any number of Iceland’s cliffs… but he’s also transformed a choice few into inimitable venues for concerts, art exhibitions, and weddings. Our lighthouse keeper extraordinaire has more keys than he can count, but the most magical of them all isn’t one he can add to what must be an awfully formidable chain. With his decades of dedication, Ingvar has unlocked a brighter future and an enduring appreciation.